'There is champagne, and then there is Selosse. Anselme, the shy philosopher-winemaker who has made the brand a cult wine, doesn't like rules. He tries things his own way. Substance is made in a solera (like sherry) and gets a lot of depth. It's food champagne and, should you get a hold of a bottle, it might even need to be decanted. A classic beauty will take a bit of time and coaxing to shed her layers.'